Trip Overview
East spur and northwest ridge of Changwatang (6,130m) is located in the Far West in Nepal near Chinese border. Changwatang has more to offer than its low elevation suggests. The mountain provides some nice surprises, including an alpine-style climbing path. This massif is a call to all those seeking peace and quiet, to all those seeking to discover a Nepal other than the well-known massifs of the Khumbu and Annapurna’s, a Nepal that is still untamed. Here you must plan your journey, choose your valley to climb, your top to climb and learn everything there is to know about the area.
Western Nepal is a largely unknown territory. As a result, the massif's name is somewhat ambiguous. It is no longer Dolpo, nor is it the Tibetan plateau, but the Limi region, located in the center of the massif. Many peaks exceed 6000 m. Magnificent, very alpine peaks, with slender, glacial paces, and others more debonair. Huge potential for those who want to climb, trek and explore. The starting point for these mountains is the small village of Simikot (capital of the district of Humla) which can be reached by plane from Nepalgunj. Otherwise, you will need 24 hours by bus and 6 days of walking from Nepalgunj.
Changwatang was not formally opened until 2002, but four Japanese and two Sherpas led by Tamotsu Ohnishi had made the ascent two years prior. This party is thought to have climbed the northwest ridge in its entirety, approaching from the west and setting up a high camp at 5,730 meters. The second ascent, along the south ridge, was made by Michihiro Honda's Japanese expedition in 2008.
The Limi massif, which stretches between Simikot and Changwatang, boasts more than 16 peaks above 6,000 meters, as well as numerous glaciated lower peaks and nameless passes. Every one of these peaks is unclimbed, and a high-altitude trip from here north to Changwatang is possible. Aside from alpinism, Changwatang offers a gateway to another universe. It's a good excuse to travel to a part of Nepal that's rarely visited, where youngsters don't bother you for pens or pencils as you pass.
The Limi Valley, tucked away in northwest Nepal, is a magical spot. Three ethnic Tibetan villages—Jang, Waljie and Til—make up the community. These villages are difficult to reach from Nepal and are shut off totally during the winter months. A valley that has been forgotten.
